“This joint looks like a ramshackle lean-to of corrugated metal and wood, a shed where you might stash chickens and goats. Inside, Eddie’s is immaculate, with tin signs and other collectibles and a clutch of men chawing on politics and good food. The pork loin tempted us, but we went for the best-seller: Frito pie with brisket, beans, sausage, chips, cheese, and a sauce made with spices imported all the way from Houston. “Sour cream too?” Eddie asked. Yes, please. “Cobbler for dessert?” Uh, yes. “With ice cream?” This question confused us momentarily, because why bother with cobbler if you don’t eat it correctly. Eddie smiled—he likes customers who get the job done right. (11/12)”